South Shetland Islands

Day 1 

Elephant Island

This island got its name from the Elephant Seals often found on its beaches.  Some say it is because when looking down on it from above it looks like an elephant head with a trunk.  Either way it is part of the South Shetland Islands so named because they are on an equal latitude point as the Shetland Islands off Scotland.  We have continued to follow the steps of Shackleton, and this small island is where they washed up.  It is here that Shackleton and 3 others left the rest of the crew while they went off in search of help.  The ones left behind stayed on a beach that no longer exists, but you can tell where they were because the caves that were behind them in photos are still there.  We rode the zodiacs around the island.  We saw a statute in honor of the Chilean Sea Captain who rescued the men left behind.  It is pretty and desolate all at the same time.

Caves that appear in background of Shackleton’s crew

The Chilean sea captain who rescued the 22 stranded crew members of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s 

Endurance expedition, Piloto Luis Pardo Villalón

Of course there is wildlife.  We saw several sea birds, penguins and elephant seals.  There are colonies of gentoo and chinstrap penguins here.  We always saw just a single chinstrap at a time, but know there are colonies on the island.  As we rode around watching the wildlife and taking photos, one chinstrap got a little too curious as in he ended up on one of the zodiacs.  He chose the one with the ship’s photographer on it so maybe he wanted to be sure he was photographed.  By chance, our zodiac was right by that one when the penguin jumped in so we got some great photos of him.  He left on his own after a couple of minutes.  In addition to wildlife, it was the first time we would see lots of small pieces of ice floating in the water with us.

 

Mug shot of the stowaway 

I think he wanted to lead the expedition 

Only hospitable to Penguins and seals

Elephant seal coming ashore

Note how small the zodiac on the right is before the glacier

Cruising

Our expedition leader studies whales so he had told us the night before to be on the lookout for them because the strait we would be following is known for whales.  After lunch, we all started looking.  Jeff and I wandered the outer deck a little and then ended up in one of the cubby holes on the side of the ship with our parkas on and legs wrapped in a blanket.  Close to us someone did see a whale quite close to the ship; we unfortunately missed it.  However, we did see many spouts but always too far away to see whale body.  At dinner that night we grabbed a table by one of the windows.  Good move.  We would see several spouts, some close some far.  And then – yippee – I see whale body and a little tail after one spout.  Of course, when I have no camera.  We would see another whale’s back after a spout. 

There she blows!

Mountains suddenly appear out of the mist

Sunset was a little after 10pm

Day 2

Ardley Island

This was not a planned stop for us, but rather we had a critically ill crew member onboard and we needed to get him to better medical care than the onboard clinic.  It is an interesting place.  The reason it was a good spot to drop off the sick crew member is that this is where many nations have research stations.  I suspect the Russian one is the biggest because they have a hospital.  In addition to the SH Diana, there are a couple of other cruise ships – first we have seen in a while.  There is a Silverseas ship and we learn that this is where people who fly to Antarctica to avoid the Drake’s Passage fly to.  There is an airstrip here with regular flights.  Well regularly scheduled, we learn that between the wind and fog the plane’s only make it in 2 out of 3 tries.  There is also a National Geographic Cruise Ship here and I notice that their zodiacs are going to the area with a concentration of research sites.  Guessing that is part of the cruise’s itinerary.

One of four sailboats

National Geographic and Silversea are in port

In addition to seeing all the research stations from a distance, we see a Russian Orthodox church, more penguins (gentoo and chinstrap) and an impressive glacier.  It was a nice ride around the island.

Russian Orthodox Church

They invest a lot of time for a view

Fluffy and grey, these Genntoo chicks are cute

If you think you see a flying Penguin it’s really an Imperial Cormorant

Chin Straps, might be my favorite Penguin 

Fort Point, Greenwich

Next stop is close to Ardley Island and one I think they visit more.  It was not an easy island to explore.  It was challenging to get off and, on the zodiacs, and there are round river rocks everywhere so challenging to walk too!  We explored for a while and saw more penguins and seals.  The seals that were in the water were fun to watch.  It was also the first time I noticed the stack of supplies that the ship brings ashore.  I remembered our expedition leader saying how to cruise in the Antarctic the ship must be self-sufficient and that when we go ashore, we must be prepared to be stuck there.  This is one island I would not have wanted to be stuck on.  

It’s hard to tell where sky and land meet

Seals and Penguins seem to get along

Though abundant, it’s the only Wendell Seal we see today

Camera made the sea appear as foam

Wave welcoming us or sending us away, we will never know

Adult and chick Gentoo

We observe Penguins often in a group of three for some reason

Fur seal

Lichen on the rocks made them colorful